Shimanami Kaido: Japan's Most Beautiful Cycling Route

The Shimanami Kaido cycling route connects Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture with Imabari in Ehime Prefecture via six islands of the Seto Inland Sea, linked by a series of suspension bridges that are jointly among the most beautiful built structures in Japan. The 70-kilometer route on dedicated cycling paths — most of which are separated from car traffic by colored lanes on the bridge walkways — passes citrus orchards, ancient Buddhist temples, tiny fishing villages, and waters scattered with traditional wooden boats. CNN named it one of the world's best cycling routes.

The Route: Island by Island

Starting from Onomichi, a short ferry crossing (110 yen, or walk the footbridge) reaches Mukaishima, the first island. From here the route passes through Innoshima (known for octopus dishes and Suigun pirate castle), Ikuchijima (home of Kosanji Temple, a remarkable complex built by a businessman as a tribute to his mother), Omishima (housing Oyamazumi Shrine with Japan's largest collection of ancient armour), Hakatajima (famous for citrus), and Oshima before the final Kurushima Strait bridges lead into Imabari.

Practical logistics and bicycle rental

• Rental terminals: 14 stations along the route from Onomichi to Imabari; rent at one end, return at the other (one-way possible with 1,100 yen drop-off fee)
• Bicycle types: city bikes (1,100 yen/day), road bikes (2,200 yen/day), and e-bikes (2,500 yen/day); e-bikes strongly recommended for those who want to enjoy scenery without exhaustion
• Time required: fit cyclists can complete the 70 km in one long day (8-10 hours); more enjoyable as a 2-day ride with an overnight on Ikuchijima or Omishima
• Elevation: the route is generally flat with moderate climbs on each island interior; the bridges themselves involve gradual spiraling ramps up to 60 meters
• Best season: October-November for clear skies and mild temperatures; April-May for gentle weather; avoid July-August heat
• Access: Onomichi is 45 minutes from Hiroshima by JR; Imabari is 80 minutes from Matsuyama by JR limited express
• Accommodation on route: guesthouses, small hotels, and cyclist-friendly inns from 5,000-12,000 yen per person

Highlights Along the Way

Kosanji Temple on Ikuchijima is a genuine highlight — its founder spent 30 years and a personal fortune recreating famous Japanese temple buildings on a grand scale, creating a surreal complex where the Toshodai-ji gate stands beside the Nikko Yomeimon and the Kiyomizu-dera stage. The adjacent Miraishin no Oka (Hill of Hope) is a marble sculpture garden designed by Hirai Kazuo with sea views. Admission is 1,400 yen.

The Kurushima Kaikyo tidal strait near Imabari has one of the fastest tidal currents in Japan, and the view from the final suspension bridge of whirlpools and fishing boats navigating the rushing water is memorable. At low tide, walk down to the water level at Kurushima Castle ruins for a ground-level view of the current. The entire Shimanami Kaido — bridges, islands, sea views, local food — constitutes one of Japan's most satisfying travel experiences.