Shikoku Pilgrimage: Walking Japan's 88 Temple Trail

The Shikoku Pilgrimage (四国遍路 / Shikoku Henro) is one of the world's great long-distance walking routes. This 1,200-kilometer circuit around Japan's fourth-largest island visits 88 temples associated with the Buddhist monk Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi), founder of Shingon Buddhism. Each year, over 100,000 pilgrims walk, cycle, drive, or bus this sacred route.

What is the Shikoku Pilgrimage?

The Basics

• Total distance: ~1,200 km (745 miles)
• Number of temples: 88 (official) + many sub-temples
• Duration: 30–60 days walking, 10–14 days by car/bus
• Difficulty: Moderate (some mountain passes, mostly paved roads)
• Best season: March–May, September–November
• Cost: ¥100,000–¥300,000 total (walking), ¥200,000–¥500,000 (car/bus)

The Four Provinces

The pilgrimage is divided into four sections, each with its own spiritual theme:

How to Do the Pilgrimage

Option 1: Walking (遍路 / Henro)

The most traditional and rewarding way.

Pros: Most authentic experience, slow travel, meet locals Cons: Time-consuming, physically demanding, weather-dependent

Option 2: Cycling (自転車遍路)

Faster than walking, still immersive.

Pros: Cover more ground, flexible schedule, good exercise Cons: Some roads dangerous for cyclists, bike maintenance

Option 3: Driving (車遍路)

Fastest and most flexible.

Pros: Visit all 88 temples quickly, flexible schedule Cons: Expensive, miss the walking experience

Option 4: Bus Tour (遍路ツアー)

Guided bus tours that visit all temples.

Pros: Hassle-free, expert guides, comfortable Cons: Fixed schedule, expensive, less authentic

Pilgrim Basics

What to Wear

Traditional pilgrim clothing (遍路装束 / henro shōzoku):

Cost for full set: ¥5,000–¥8,000 at Temple #1

What to Bring (Walking)

Essential:

• Comfortable walking shoes (broken in)
• Rain gear (waterproof jacket + pants)
• Sunscreen and hat (summer)
• Headlamp (for early starts)
• First aid kit
• Water bottles (2L minimum)
• Snacks and energy bars
• Cash (ATMs are rare in rural areas)

Optional:

• Trekking poles
• Camera
• Portable charger
• Sleep mask and earplugs
• Book/Kindle for evenings

Temple Basics

Visiting a Temple

Each temple visit follows a similar pattern:

1. Enter through the main gate (南門 / nanmon)
2. Purify hands at the water basin (手水舎 / temizuya)
3. Ring the bell (if available) by pulling the rope
4. Place offerings — rice (5 go), incense (1 bun), candle (1 hon)
5. Chant at the main hall — recite the Heart Sutra (般若心経)
6. Get your stamp — the temple writes your stamp book (¥300–¥500)
7. Buy charms (optional) — protection amulets, good luck items

Stamp Book (納経帳 / Nōkyō-chō)

Total for 88 temples: ¥30,000–¥50,000 for all stamps

Mantra for Each Temple

Each temple has its own mantra (真言 / shingon) to chant. The most common is:

"Namu Daishi Henjo Kōnichi" (南無大師遍照金剛) "Homage to the Great Teacher, Illuminating Vajra"

Key Temples to Know

Temple #1: Ryōzen-ji (霊山寺)

Starting point of the pilgrimage

• Location: Naruto, Tokushima
• Significance: Temple of Awakening
• What to see: Pilgrim supply shop, garden
• Time: 30 minutes

Temple #23: Yakuō-ji (八王子寺)

End of Tokushima section

• Location: Mima, Tokushima
• Significance: Highest temple on the route (927m)
• What to see: Mountain-top pagoda, sunset views
• Time: 1 hour

Temple #24: Hotsumisaki-ji (最御崎寺)

Start of Kōchi section

• Location: Muroto, Kōchi
• Significance: Where Kūkai attained enlightenment
• What to see: Clifftop views, cave where Kūkai meditated
• Time: 1 hour

Temple #36: Chikurin-ji (竹林寺)

Kōchi's most beautiful temple

• Location: Kōchi City
• Significance: Temple of Bamboo Forest
• What to see: Beautiful garden, pagoda
• Time: 45 minutes

Temple #40: Ishite-ji (石手寺)

Start of Ehime section

• Location: Matsuyama, Ehime
• Significance: One of the largest temples
• What to see: Massive gate, cave, garden
• Time: 1 hour

Temple #65: Iwaya-ji (岩屋寺)

Most dramatic temple setting

• Location: Shikokuchūō, Ehime
• Significance: Temple in a cave
• What to see: Cliff-side cave temple, stunning views
• Time: 1–2 hours

Temple #88: Ōkuboji (大窪寺)

Final temple

• Location: Zentsūji, Kagawa
• Significance: Completion of the pilgrimage
• What to see: Celebration atmosphere, pilgrims completing their journey
• Time: 30 minutes

Accommodation

Types

Henro Huts (遍路小屋)

Free shelters for pilgrims scattered along the route. Basic but functional — usually just a room with futons. Ask locals or check guidebooks for locations.

Budget Summary

Walking Budget (40 days)

Car Budget (10 days)

Tips for First-Timers

1. Start at Temple #1 — buy your gear and set your intention
2. Walk at least a few days — even if you drive most of it
3. Stay at a temple — the住宿坊 experience is unforgettable
4. Eat local food — each province has specialties
5. Learn the mantra — "Namu Daishi Henjo Kōnichi"
6. Bring cash — ATMs are rare in rural areas
7. Respect the tradition — dress appropriately, follow temple etiquette
8. Don't rush — the pilgrimage is about the journey, not the destination

Japanese Phrases

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