Matsuyama: Dogo Onsen, Cycling, and Shikoku's Capital City

Matsuyama is the gateway to two of Japan's most celebrated travel experiences: Dogo Onsen, a public bathhouse that has been operating continuously for over 3,000 years and is claimed to be the inspiration for the bathhouse in Studio Ghibli's Spirited Away, and the Shimanami Kaido cycling highway that bridges six islands across the Seto Inland Sea to connect Shikoku with Honshu. The Matsuyama city itself is worth at least a day: the original Matsuyama Castle standing on its 132-meter hilltop is one of only 12 remaining original-structure castles in Japan, and the city's literary heritage runs deep. Poet Masaoka Shiki and novelist Natsume Soseki both lived here, leaving a cultured, bookish atmosphere that distinguishes Matsuyama from other mid-sized Japanese cities. The city retains one of Japan's few working tram networks, adding to its unhurried character.

Dogo Onsen: Japan's Oldest Hot Spring

Dogo Onsen Honkan, the historic three-story wooden bathhouse built in 1894, is under restoration until around 2028 but remains partially open. Visitors can bathe in the working section while watching restoration work through viewing windows, a genuinely unusual experience. The main bath (Kami-no-Yu) costs 460 yen for a standard soak; upper-floor private rooms with yukata and tea service cost 2,000-3,000 yen and allow a more leisurely experience. Asuka-no-Yu, a newer facility opened in 2017 next door, fills the gap with a modern bathhouse designed to reference the original's architecture.

Tsubaki-no-yu, a smaller local facility a few minutes walk away, has the least tourist traffic and cheapest admission at 360 yen. The Dogo shopping arcade leading to the bathhouses is lined with mikan (Ehime mandarin orange) sweets shops, sake vendors, and pottery stalls. The area is liveliest in the evening when bathers in yukata walk between facilities.

Matsuyama Castle: One of Japan's Original Twelve

Matsuyama Castle was built in 1603 and has survived intact, making it architecturally precious. Reach it via ropeway (270 yen) or chairlift (270 yen) from the city center, then walk a short trail to the three-tiered tower. Interior exhibits explain the castle's complex history. Views from the top take in Matsuyama's grid of streets, the Seto Inland Sea, and on clear days the mountains of Hiroshima Prefecture. The castle grounds are free to enter and pleasant for a walk even without buying admission to the tower.

Shimanami Kaido Cycling and Day Trips

The Shimanami Kaido connects Imabari (30 minutes from Matsuyama by bus) to Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture via 70 kilometers of bridges and islands. The dedicated cycling lane is one of Asia's finest long-distance bike routes, passing through lemon orchards, small fishing villages, and suspension bridges with sea views in every direction. Bicycles can be rented at Imabari and returned at Onomichi for around 3,000 yen total. The full route takes 1-2 days; a half-day sampler to Oshima Island and back covers the route's most dramatic section.

• Getting there: 70-min flight from Tokyo Haneda (10,000-25,000 yen) or Shinkansen to Okayama then limited express (2.5 hours total)
• Getting around: city trams cover Dogo and the castle (200 yen flat fare); all-day pass 700 yen
• Jakoten: deep-fried fish cake made from small white fish, Ehime street food for 200 yen at Dogo stalls
• Ehime mikan: the prefecture produces Japan's most famous mandarins; fresh season October to February
• Shiki Memorial Museum: celebrates poet Masaoka Shiki who modernized haiku; entry 400 yen
• Uchiko: 45-min bus from Matsuyama, beautifully preserved Edo-period merchant town with wax museum
• Ozu: riverside castle town 45 min by train; Garyu Sanso villa is one of the finest Meiji-era private gardens in Japan
• Best season: spring and autumn; summer is hot and humid but beach season on nearby Seto islands

Two nights in Matsuyama is the right minimum: one evening at Dogo Onsen, one full day for the castle and city, and a morning excursion to Imabari to start or sample the Shimanami Kaido. The city pairs naturally with Hiroshima (2 hours by express ferry) and Onomichi for a Seto Inland Sea circuit.